Headlight alignment, wiring and O2 sensor testing

 OK, now my IVA date is set, my brain is working overtime. I'm hoping that making a list of small jobs I want to do will let me sleep at night, two months of insomnia is not going to be healthy!

The first two jobs were headlight alignment and emissions. They're the two 'unknowns' left that are part of the test. The headlight alignment turned out to be relatively simple, a bit of tape on the fence and lots of tweaks with the screwdriver;

The only slight mess up I did was the centre line, I'd lined everything up then realised the car wasn't pointing in the same direction anymore! So out came the laser, I have a centre line of the car and just needed to line it up with the centre line on the fence (the top bit of tape). 

From then it was a case of getting the horizontal section to be the same height as the tape, and the 'kick up' to the left to be at the correct horizontal distance. Given it was mid afternoon it was dark enough to clearly see the beam pattern and adjust to suit. At the distance measured (25 feet), I had 15 CM to play with so getting it aligned with a 2.5cm tape was pretty easy. Of course, there could still be a measurement issue at the test but I've got it as close as possible. At least the adjustment did cover the range of motion, given the bodywork position had a lot to do with it there could have been a lot more issues.

Next up was the emissions. Technically I did the emissions first, but this is just a blog. There were two parts to this, confirming the testable limits and checking the O2 sensor was behaving. If I saw a good signal from the O2 sensor, then there was a fair chance the ECU was controlling fuelling correctly. 

I have a small oscilloscope that I bought as a kit, it does the job but I've never really had a purpose for it before. This time it worked perfectly. Attaching it to the O2 wire and to ground when the engine was cold gave me a 0v output which was expected. With the engine running and everything getting up to temperature, I saw the voltage rise, then after a while it started to oscillate. If I understand the process this is the ECU switching from open loop to closed loop (again, a good sign things were running well). Here is the output signal from the scope. 

Given each square is 1 volts, this puts the oscillation between 0.3v and 0.9v. This could be a little high, from what I was reading it should be 0.1v to 0.9v. However it's the oscillation that is the key part, and that showed up plain as day. 

Of course, it appears to be ok but then I still have my doubts. The frequency seems to slow, it should be between 1hz and 5hz. Given each square is 1 second that means I have a 0.5hz oscillation which seems too slow. It's also not clean, the other graphs I've seen are more of a square wave than a sine wave like this. Finally this is me checking at the connector, It's still possible the signal isn't getting to the ECU (although it's the closed loop feedback that causes the oscillations so I think I'm ok there).

So that's all I can check on the engine side. The flip side is what emissions I am testing for. As I have mentioned before the date of the engine and on the documentation confirms a manufacture date of 21st August 1992. This puts it firmly in the BET test, which is a fast idle test of CO <=0.2% and HC <=200ppm, with a lambda of between 0.97 and 1.03. 

The next step is where it gets interesting. Those limits are extremely low, basically only achievable with a full closed loop system and a cat. But the car is very early on in the date range, and it's not a UK car.

As it turns out, that's the key. It's a Eunos, not a Mazda. The letter confirms it. So if it doesn't meet that particular standard, the flow chart goes to the 'CAT 1' section. In this case, the date is still relevant, but then it says 'can you find an EXACT match in the analyser database'. As it happens, no you can't, because it's not a UK car. In which case the secondary test should be a non cat test, CO <=3.5% and HC <=1200ppm. This was the same as cars from between August 1986 and July 1992, and to be honest not far off cars manufactured before 1986, which had no emissions rules applied at all. 

All this means that while the car may not have perfect emissions, it also doesn't need it. It has also been suggested that the higher emissions might work in my favour for future MOT's as well as any potential engine swap I might be considering. So I'm tempted to cross my fingers and hope for the non cat emissions. 

Last job for the weekend, or so I thought... wiring. There's a few bits of wire near to the fuse box that were making me uncomfortable. Essentially unsupported wires that could move, flex and potentially chafe.

The rear plug in particular was just suspended in mid air, and while the manual says that wiring should be supported every x mm, I didn't like the extra weight and vulnerability of a free air connector.

What I've done (and unfortunately forgotten to take a picture) is undo the wiring harness on the first clip of the body, and move the connector to rest on the chassis itself. I have also added a corrugated tube to the wiring as it crosses to the body, and cable tied both ends. This means that the connector is now no longer unsupported, and the unsupported wiring is running in a fixed tube. For me I'm a lot more comfortable with it, and hopefully Mr IVA man will be as well. 

The top loop of wiring in the above image is also now fixed to a clip so it's not just dangling, so that was that. Of course, on the way I did see a few other things I want to sort. First is a simple one, the front wiring passes the fixing for the horns;

In practice this is probably fine, but for the sake of a bolt cover it should be pretty simple to resolve. 

The next thing I want to sort is the engine fixings for the loom and radiator hose. The original fixings were planned for the loom only, but then the radiator overflow hose went the same direction so I doubled up. Problem is I doubled up by attaching the hose to the loom! 

These pictures show a comparison, the first is a separated loom and radiator bracket, the second is the loom and radiator fixed by the same clamp and a single cable tie. I'm not sure why I thought this might be acceptable. However it also gives me an opportunity to resolve another issue. These mounting plates were made with thin metal, and they bend. I don't think it would need much driving for them to snap, and the very hot exhaust manifold is where the wiring and pipe would land. That wouldn't be a positive outcome. So I've 3D printed some proper clamps that provide the separation required, and I'm going to remake each of the 3 brackets out of some thicker steel. It also gives me the opportunity to move them a bit further away from the breather filter, again it would probably be 'alright' but it's not something I want to have come back and bite me.

Oh yeah, and alongside all this, the rear lights stopped working again. This was on me though. The one printed light fitting hadn't got the correct tolerances, so the bulb had basically fallen out of it's holder. As far as I can tell it had caused a short between pins, so I was getting all sorts of funky lights going on. Reprinting the holder resolved the issue. I also increased the size of the screw fixings for the lens itself, and I'm tempted to retrofit the same on the other side. As I tightened one of the screws I heard the plastic crack, the fixings just aren't big enough to cope with the self tapping screws. Ideally I'd heat up the screw before screwing it in but that can be tricky. 

IVA application and booking

 Here goes, time to get stuck into the paperwork. I'm doing it online and I don't know whether I'll come to regret that decision! First off then, design weights. From the earlier post I have;

Front left: 144.2 KGs

Front right: 144.9 KGs

Back left: 152.8 KGs

Back right: 146.8 KGs

Plus 20KG's of fuel to add on.

For a 2 seater car I then have 75kg per seat. That gives me a gross weight of 770KG's (rounding up the corner weights to 150). 

Given the rear takes the 20kg's of fuel and the 14kg of luggage, plus half the person weight, that gives the rear maximum as;

300 + 20 + 14 + 75 = 409kg

Then the front is 770 - 409 = 361

(Later that day)

Well, the application is in, arranged for Kidderminster. The website is awful, with no back button it has to be absolutely perfect. My third application was enough to go through complete. The first time I'd put the wrong class, which I didn't notice until it asked me for a payment of £199. It should have been more than double that!

The second time was a simple user error, I didn't attach the right documentation and couldn't go back. So the third one took longer but got submitted correctly. Time to wait for the test date and possibly reschedule to next year if required. 

In the meantime, I've done a couple more jobs. First was changing the coolant. It was only water while I checked for leaks, but with the cold weather I thought it would be a good idea to replace some water with antifreeze. I did flush things out though, the water wasn't exactly clean so hopefully now it'll keep things a bit healthier.

I also took the car for a drive, and it's actually feeling a bit more comfortable and smooth. There's a squeak coming from one of the interior panels that I'll sort at some point, but the main issue was the spongy brake pedal. 

So I need to sort that over the winter. It's going to be one of two things, either there is still air in the brake lines, or the master cylinder is leaking internally. Air in the brake lines is probably the easiest/cheapest to sort, the master cylinder a bit more of a challenge. A new master cylinder is about £300 so I won't be doing that! But there is a rebuild kit available, part number BW0A-43-61Z. I found one on Autodoc;

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/abs/7799158

And also lists part numbers BW0A4361Z, GJ214361Z, NM02298.  FT-3055. SK21311-2.

I'll try bleeding first, but I need to buy some more fluid if that's the case. 

(December update)

I forgot I left this hanging! So it's now the 8th of December, and it's been just over a week since I submitted my IVA application. As above it wasn't a pleasant experience, but I got there in the end. 

A few days later I got a follow up email. They wanted the following;

    Copies of build invoices for major parts purchased EG kit receipts

Well, that was going to be interesting, mainly because it wasn't a kit! In the end I sent them some receipts for raw materials (steel and aluminium stock), as well as the receipt for the bodywork. They seemed to accept that, and as of today they're waiting for me to call them and arrange a date. I'll probably do it today, it was a manic week at work.

Last update for this post, the brakes. Thankfully I didn't have to do anything with the master cylinder, after asking what my symptoms meant everyone just said 'they need bleeding'. So I spent several more hours bleeding the brakes, and it seems to be ok now. I did find one hose connection that seemed to be leaking, so I replaced the copper washers on that one. For some reason it was the rear left (expected) and the front right (unexpected) that were the worst. The rear left coughed up so much air and bubbles that I'm amazed I had any brakes at all!

I am planning this week to do the headlight alignment, unfortunately it's an outside activity that requires movement of all three cars and at night so I'm not looking forward to it. I am hoping the process isn't too painful though, the main issue will be finding a level surface that is 7 metres long with a fence at the end of it. My drive is that long but whether it's level is an entirely different question!

Well, I've just come off the phone with the DVSA, and it's disappointing news. I have three test centres within driving distance, Kidderminster, Derby and Nottingham. The first two have no bookings available, and Nottingham is closed. Looks like I'm going to have to go a bit further afield, so time to check Google maps and see what is realistic. 

(last update). I'm booked in at Bristol on the xxx of February. 8am slot with a 2 hour drive so it's going to be up at very-early-o'clock for the drive. That gives me about 2 months to go over the car with a fine tooth comb to make sure it's all perfect.

Oh, and the new fuel filler hose arrived from Car builder solutions, with the correct certificate, so I'll get that fitted. Then I can get the tank filled up to see if I have any leaks. It's going to take multiple trips unfortunately, I've got a 5 litre can and a 27 litre tank!

IVA (brake fluid sticker, front grill and centre tunnel cover, bulkhead and handbrake bolts)

 Start with an easy one, the brake fluid sticker;

And the front grille is now compliant (and in my opinion looks really ugly now);

Staying with edge trim, the centre tunnel is now compliant;

As well as the last few bulkhead bolts;

And lastly the handbrake bolts;

That picture shows that I've got two more covers to do. First is the handbrake adjuster, that's an obvious one. The other is the steering column support. Given the exclusion zone around the wheel it's really touch and go whether it's within range, so to avoid doubt I'll just do a clip on rounded cover. 

IVA work (interior corner trim, rear suspension and handbrake)

I have a plan. I want to get the IVA done before the Malvern kit car show, but November/December are typically busy times for me and the family. So I'm going to put my application in at the end of the year, and hopefully get a January/February test. On the (hopeful) assumption that it passes, that gives me time to get it registered for it's first long trip. 

On that note, more IVA stuff. The interior edges are going well;

I've got the two outside edges on there. The tape certainly seems to hold them on securely, I just hope it's enough for IVA. I do need to test the seat movement with all edges in place though, just in case they get caught and torn off or something weird. That ended up with a 7mm diameter so 3.5mm radius, well in spec. I just need to do the tunnel edges next.

The suspension bolts now protrude from the nut an appropriate length, and I also got a washer in there for good measure;

There's still the stack of washers in between the suspension bars, I think it's ok as they're in compression but there's a possibility the IVA man won't like the design and I'll have to replace them with a solid piece. Of course that is the long term plan but only after I get the camber set correctly. 

The handbrake cables are now secure;

To be honest I think I've gone a bit overboard with them but as with everything IVA I'd rather go overboard than 'underboard'. 

The steering got sorted too. The background to this was that at full droop and full lock the steering arms were hitting the suspension arm. This isn't necessarily a fail as the test is done at static load rather than full compression, and they don't touch at that point. But again (most of) the IVA rules are there to cover issues, and this was an issue. It's a simple solution, I'm back to steering limiters. So now rather than nearly three turns lock to lock, it's only two turns. If you remember I'd put the limiters on a while back but they limited the steering to about 1.5 turns which is unusable on any road. It didn't take much tweaking to get them to where I want them. 

Away from IVA, I thought some stickers might be good;

And because I've now finished everything suspension related the hubcaps were added. I have to admit I think they could benefit from some paint, the matt black looks like a failed photoshop edit!

What's left now?

• Covers for the front grille. The one edge is too sharp so it needs a cover. A quick session with a ruler shows that I have 8mm clearance on the face before it gets to the rivet. It's only about 2mm deep before it gets to mesh, and it's about 25cm long (so two prints again. I'll modify the existing one, it'll have to be quite bulbous to meet the curve requirements but avoid the mesh and the rivets. 

• Handbrake covers
• Wiring final touches.

Hmm, that is an impressively small list! I think there might be one more job... complete the IVA paperwork. I might as well crack on with that. 

IVA work part five (lock nuts, brake pipe clamps, steering wheel face, boot lock, rear light shells)

 The front castle nuts now have pins;

And the wheel axle nuts have been 'staked';

Brake clamps worked really well and keep everything apart/together;

(I also turned the fuel pump connectors round here as I could see there was a potential chafing issue)

The handbrake cables still route against the chassis so I need a bracket or clamp to secure them;

I doubt a car could ever wear through a handbrake cable in this position as they're basically a steel tube, but having it fixed in place is a pretty simple task.

Steering wheel got de-radiused with a printed face;

I quite like it to be honest, the plastic just needed a bit of warmth to get the curves on either side and the bottom. It could probably do with a tiny bit of refinement on the top edge but it's IVA first, decorative second.

The boot lock got a split pin at the same time as the front axles;

That's not going to slide open anytime soon. 

One small but time-consuming job was reprinting the shells for the fog and reverse light to make sure the radii are ok;

So that's a few jobs ticked off, but of course I couldn't end the day without adding an extra job! The rear suspension adjustable bracket doesn't have enough exposed thread through the Nyloc nut. 

This is because these are still in 'adjustable' mode, hence the number of washers. It's the same inside the head of the suspension;

So really all I need to do is remove some of the washers so the bolt gets a proper distance through the nyloc. I'm thinking two or three washers will correspond to two or three exposed threads on the bolt. Only problem is that it's on the back of the car which doesn't have much space in the garage, I'd need to get it outside to fix it. Saturday is looking bright enough (albeit very cold!). 

The final to-do list?

 I've now gone through the IVA manual line by line, and these are the gaps I have left;

• 01 Noise.

Must have a measured sound level not exceeding 99DBA. I have actually measured this but it wasn't at the required revs and the engine was cold. I could do with doing this again just to make sure, hopefully the neighbours don't mind. The first time I think was around 91 so I am hoping I'm well within the limit.

• 02B Metered emissions.

The emissions limits must be met. Nothing I can do here, as with regular MOT's I can just hope everything looks fine. 

• 05 Steering effort.

The steering angle must not be limited by any part of the steering, transmission, or suspension system unless the components have been specifically designed for this purpose. Steering components must not foul or be likely to foul other parts of the vehicle under normal operating conditions. Basically I need to put the steering limiters back in, because otherwise the steering hits the wishbone. It's only at full droop, and the test is done with the vehicle at rest, but no point having it do something it shouldn't. 

When the vehicle is driven at speeds above 10mph, there must be a degree of steering “self-centring” evident. This to be retested now I've reset the suspension.

• 09C Park Brake control.

A parking brake lever, actuating linkage, cable or associated component mounting / bracket must be secure to the vehicle structure. I need to make clips to hold the handbrake rear cables to the chassis, otherwise they could be seen as touching and potentially damaging.

• 09D Hydraulic systems

An indelible label must be affixed in a visible position within 100 mm of the filling ports of the fluid reservoirs to ensure that it is possible for the end user of the vehicle to identify the brake fluid used in braking system. I have the sticker design, just need to print and stick. 

• 12 Interior fittings

Handbrake and mechanism to be assessed for contact. The nuts/bolts/edges etc just need the various covers on them. And yes, I still need to protect the wiring as it enters the car.

Edge trim on all edges. See previous post. 

• 16 Exterior projections

Check front grille metal edge is at least 2.5mm. The corner trim has made me paranoid that part of the front grill isn't correctly radiused. If it isn't then an extra bit of trim is required.

• 25 Headlamps

Headlight aim based on dipped beam. This sounds and looks really simple to check and adjust, but my garage isn't square on with the drive, so I actually need to do some rearranging in the dark to get this right. 

• 44 Masses and dimensions

Calculate design weights based on kerb weights plus passengers plus fuel. Measure length and width. This is for the registration form as well. 

In terms of corner weights, I managed to do it properly, so here it is;

Front left: 144.2 KGs

Front right: 144.9 KGs

Back left: 152.8 KGs

Back right: 146.8 KGs

For a total of 588.7 KGs. I am very happy with that, I thought I was closer to the MX5 donor car but turns out I'm 400KGs lighter. 

There are a couple of caveats to that. The tank only has a few litres in it, and it's a 27 litre tank. So based on the IVA values I can assume maybe 20KG of fuel to go in. I also did it per corner, with lifting the other three. Apparently it's a valid method of measuring, but I want to be overestimating the total weight rather than under. 

What I can't figure out is how these numbers relate to kerb weight, axle weight, gross vs max, what is permitted, what needs to be declared etc. I'll have to check the IVA form to figure out what numbers are actually needed.

Corner trim

 One thing I had forgotten was that the interior trim isn't IVA compatible. For some reason I thought about it a while back but then 'stopped', on the mistaken assumption that the aluminium trim would be fine. But now I need to sort out some trim to fix it.

The side trims are 655mm long and are 20mm tall and deep. The middle tunnel is made up of three sections;

• At the back the section is 345 long, starts at 247mm wide and ends at 172mm.
• The middle section is 490 long, starts with the 172 as the first section, then ends at 173. Not sure how that happened to be 1mm wider but there you go. There's a gearstick in this panel as well but hopefully that won't affect things. 
• The front section is then 173 wide, then expanding to 310, 367 long. 

My first thought is to print some trim sections. My printer can do around 250mm diagonally. So each section would have to be done in chunks. The sides would need to be done in 3 sections, the middle section could just about be done in 2 sections per side, the front and rear would fit no problem. 

Now I do have some options regarding material. TPU would be the most sensible, a bit of a rubber like texture would make sense. But it only needs to be rounded off, not necessarily soft, so I'm going to start with PETG as a test piece, and see how it works.

I do need to consider the screws though, they need to be left exposed and the edge trim worked around it. 

(Later that day)

I've made a couple of designs to print. First was a 20 x 20 trim. Apart from it not being able to stay attached to the bed, it's just too big for what is needed.

The second option is a 'hockey stick'. I've got a couple of designs of hockey stick, but I think tonight will be sorting bed adhesion and temperature. I've got some nice matter PETG but it's a 'high speed' filament so it looks like it's being cooked by the temperatures I used for regular PETG. The original setting was 255, I've dropped it to 230 which hopefully should help with the stringing and adhesion. 

And it looks like it has, the surface finish is much better. I just need to check how it looks on the car. 

(the following day...or two)

So I settled on a corner trimmed based on a 7mm diameter (so 3.5mm radius). It's a bit bigger than the hockey stick in both directions but I think it'll stick better. And yes, it will be stuck using double sided tape, although it will be pretty strong stuff that is normally used for holding carpet in place. Because of the size of the printer the six parts above are needed just for the outer edges, I need another ten for the centre console. I've only done these six for now, just in case I can't attach them properly. They need sanding, trimming, gluing together as one piece, then mounting on to the car. 

IVA work part four (brake pedal wiring, ID plate, gearbox wiring, horn button, fuel pump covers, steering alignment)

 This morning started well, AWS seems to be poorly and most of my work is Amazon based.. thankfully this blog isn't so I might as well update from the weekend!

First thing, the brake pedal wiring. This is where I had left it;

I couldn't figure out where to route it that didn't come into contact with a sharp edge or a moving part. So I went for a mounted tube;

It goes from the switch bracket up the back of the bulkhead, secured with a wiring clip. That got the wire into the air, where it was then cable tied to the speedo cable, the chassis and ended up above the steering column with all other wiring. This was swiftly followed by a minor concern when the brake lights didn't operate, but I think I'd just dislodged one of the pins in the connector. 

I also rerouted the main power wires just to get them more out of the way so I could then tie wrap them in place. So now the drivers side footwell is all clean and tidy. I've still got some nut covers to go on for the radius check so that's one thing on the to do list.

This also sorted a binding issue with the brakes. The last few days I felt the car was 'heavier' than normal, it turns out I'd fitted the switch back a little too tight and it was holding the master cylinder on. I backed it off and then found the pedal was loose!! So I needed a bit of trial and error to find out where the switch held enough pressure to act as a pedal stop, not enough pressure to move the master cylinder, but also the correct distance for the lights to come on when they're meant to. That's all present and correct now so I'm happy. 

Next job, ID plate;

£8 from the local market key cutting van and a couple of rivets. It looked so good when it was on though, it was saying that this is my car that I had built.

Next, gearbox wiring. There are four wires that go from the loom to the gearbox. Two for the reverse switch and two for the neutral switch. Up until this weekend they were just loose single wires laid on top of the gearbox and I knew they would fail. Given there was a decent length on them and relatively easy access I just put them in some corrugated tube and pinned the tube to the chassis.

The tube goes all the way to the engine bay and is terminated on another tube so everything is protected. 

What else? Oh, the steering wheel. After a comment on a Facebook post I went back to the IVA to figure out what was needed on my steering wheel. Here's the wording;

• The rim of the wheel should be padded or at least made from a material which when deformed does not splinter or fragment. That's a simple one, I'm using the standard steering wheel so while it doesn't feel padded, it isn't going to splinter or fragment. I'm guessing they're referring to wooden steering wheels here.
• The centre boss should be padded or recessed below the level of the rim. This is the main one, I was working on it being 'padded' but there is the 'recessed' option which it is by default. So as long as I interpret this the same as the inspector I should be fine as is.
• Wheels with a very deep dish are stiffer than flatter wheels and, as such will absorb less energy. Not applicable.
• The centre boss will often be of a collapsible type comprising a convoluted crushable section or a series of metal fingers with a deliberate fold introduced to initiate a collapse. Yep the standard boss is of this design, it's inside a corrugated cover but it can be seen with the horn button removed. 
• Bolts used to secure the wheel to its boss (if exposed) should ideally be flush with the wheel surface but otherwise are required to meet the radius requirements if contactable. Yep, flush mount allen bolts. 
• Bare metal spokes are allowed as long as they conform to the edge radius requirements. This one is currently a fail, I've just checked and I'm not convinced they're correctly radiused. So at the very least I'll need a rounded face on the wheel, a simple 3D print should suffice. I did consider the bodywork edge trim but the wheel is too thick and too close to the boss to allow correct fitment, so a rounded printed edge will have to do.
• Components likely to catch in the driver’s clothing or jewellery are not permitted. Not applicable.

So I can go for less of a padded wheel and more just a cover. I'm kind of glad because the padded face wasn't going well. The only thing I would need to do is label the horn, so I replaced the 'momo' badge with a 3D printed version;

It's not bad, I'll have to wait and see whether I like it enough to keep it after IVA or go for some other button + label. 

I think I mentioned this last update, the fuel pump wires now have the proper covers on them. just putting it here in case there's a problem seeing them at the test.

The reflectors I made earlier in the week are now glued in place so that's that job done.

The seats are now properly bolted in with nylocs and washers. They don't have huge spreader washers mainly because there's a layer of aluminium, a steel insert in a steel tube, two thick washers and the seat sliders between the two ends of the bolt, a wider washer wasn't going to do anything. The seat rails work well, the drivers side is a bit stiffer than the passengers but I suspect that's just old age. Not that either one will be moving very far, I doubt anyone will be driving my car! Oh, apart from the inspector of course, apparently that's a 'thing'. It makes sense, it's not as if he'd be able to pick up on self centring by watching me drive it. 

Last thing is the suspension geometry. So I dropped the front end until the suspension was as horizontal as I could get it (the body nose is now vulnerable to speed bumps but I'll have to figure that one out another time). The tyre pressures are up to recommended values, and I've reset the front toe to zero. It was actually quite a bit out, partly because of my tinkering but mostly due to the suspension lowering. 

So time for a quick review of the job list;

• Lock the wheel axle nuts. They've been done up to torque, I need to give them a clout with a chisel to lock them in place.
• Lock castle nuts. Similar locking needed for the castle nuts, split pins are the order of the day.
• Replacement fog and reverse light shells. A much appreciated comment on Facebook pointed out that the outer shells of my 'IVA friendly' lights are in fact quite sharp edges. It's a little bit annoying but absolutely right. So I've got a replacement drawn up and ready to print. As there was already a printed section to put it at the correct angle, I put that back in with the new shell. I just need to wait for some filament to arrive and then 5 hours per side to print them out. 
• Door roundels to go on. Not really for IVA but I want to get them on anyway. 
• Nut covers for the handbrake bolts/nuts. 
• Securing pin for the boot handle. While the boot does close and lock pretty securely now, the lock itself is only a friction fit on the handle. It wouldn't take much time/heat/vibration for it to work itself loose. I want to back it up with a hole through the shaft and a split pin to keep things in place. Not a difficult task but it needs to be on the list. 

Photoshoot

 Decent weather plus 99% finished car means photos!