No wiring this time, I will get there eventually but not for now. Brain trouble rather than wiring trouble, maybe another time for that.
This is a couple of small jobs that I've had on my list for a long time. First the seat belt reels. I doubt they'd have failed the IVA with them being bare, but given they're hidden behind trim on the MX5 they are pretty ugly bare units. So I designed and 3D printed a small box for them to live in;
(The clamp was there to just stop the seatbelt from retracting!). The two halves will be glued together, I'm not expecting any maintenance on these so gluing the seam should be fine. I'll do it with the belt fully extended though, I don't want superglue dripped on the belt. It's a really straightforward shape but only the near half will even be visible (the belt will come out the top in it's final position). Then they can bolt in place.
Next was finishing the seats, I went to town on the headrest edge and really trimmed out all the overlapping pieces. The seam on the back board is absolutely spot on if I do say so myself, I'm really happy with how tight they've ended up;
I couldn't have got it any better. And with the black fixing screws matching the dash;
I think they just work really well.
Next, VIN stamping. This was just a trial but I think it worked;
That's a centre punch rather than a letter stamp, and a paper template to show where the holes should go. I'm thinking of making some 3D printed guide for the stamp to make sure they end up in predictable places (IE straight lines!). Once I've stamped the whole VIN then it'll get welded in place. Given how much this small piece of metal curved I don't want to be stamping direct into the frame!
The last update is for my rear fenders/arches. I did the fronts a long time ago, but I didn't get round to the rears. Using the same method I'd done before, I got the wheel template in place against the body, then using an 80 Degree guide I glued lollipop sticks every ten degrees around the top. That was yesterday, so today I'll go fill in the gaps then make a paper template from the surface. After that it's over to aluminium to cut a left and a right, then they'll be ready for attaching.
Ah, attaching... I've still not figured this out. I do need to trim the front arches to make sure there is wheel clearance, but on the other hand it also means there's less material to attach to the fender to. Screwing or riveting won't work, I don't want a visible fixing and I don't have anything to screw through anyway. The only thing I can think of is to;
- Temporarily fix the fender in place (with tape most likely)
- Use fibreglass to build up underneath.
- Take the aluminium off to clean up the fibreglass.
- Bond the aluminium back on.
- (add some discrete screws for reinforcement if necessary).
The main thing is what width to do the fibreglass. In theory I could do it right to the edge (and beyond) of the fender, then actually the new fibreglass would become the fender (after trimming). More likely I think an inch or so of 'lip' protruding from the side of the car for the aluminium fender to glue on to. The lip would also give me the option of screwing the fender in place, then a bit of filler to smooth over the screw holes would finish the job.
I'm going to try it on the front first, mainly because it's better access but because I can get to the bottom quite well just by opening the bonnet. The rear arches will then follow whatever turns out to be the best plan.
Thinking about it, the extra lip formed on the arch will also restore the stiffness of the bonnet. As I cut away the arch I'm going to lose a bit of strength in the car.
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