Indicator self cancelling

One thing that has bugged me about this car is the indicators not cancelling. I had put a set of markers on the steering column so I could see when the indicators were on or off, but that wasn't overly effective.

So I opened up the steering to see what was going on;

This is the self cancelling feature, a white collar that turns with the steering wheel and operates the indicator lever;

But you can see in the top picture the nubs that engage with the steering hub are broken, so nothing is happening. 3D printing to the rescue!!

I was going to 3D print an entire new collar but there's not much room and I felt a 3D printed version would be unnecessarily weak. Where the nubs go there's a fair bit of clearance so I was able to print an oversized version of the same. A bit of glue to attach it to the original and it all works fine. Of course, I needed to make sure the steering wheel was in the right position when it all went back together, and I think it cancels a left indicator slightly earlier than it does on the right, but at least I'm not an old fart driving with permanent indicators on!

Rear suspension prep

 The rear wishbones have been taken off. I forgot how heavy a hub is when it's fully kitted out! My brain is probably remembering when they were just bare hubs.

Opening up the top wishbones I can see the first issue, the paint was still on there. Thinking about it, I wouldn't have been able to remove the paint the last time as they would have had to come off the car. Now that they are off I've cleaned up all the surfaces, partly to increase friction but partly so I can mark them up and drill them.

The bolt hole is actually slightly loose. Probably not because of wear but just because I'd have opened up the hole to fit the bolt through. 

Checking the newly arrived pins shows there's spot on;

It also looks like I can use pretty much any part of the block surface. It doesn't have a top fixing so it can go into a thicker part of the wishbone as long as I drill the hole deep enough. In fact thinking about it I might want it in a thicker part, I just need to make sure the depth is more than the pin.

The plan will be to mark and drill a hole in the block on either side, decently far enough away from the centre to provide leverage and stop the turning action. Then bolt the block to each side in turn and drill through to get the required hole. I'll drill everything with a 3mm or 4mm drill first, then open it up to 5mm afterwards. Lots of cutting fluid all round!! I do have a rudimentary drill press that I could use for at least the block holes, then with that straight it would make drilling into the wishbones easier and more consistent. 

I was wondering whether I could treat myself to some new drill bits just for this task, but a quick Google suggests cheap ones are all chinesium and not worth buying, and expensive ones are too much for my meagre budget. 

(17/8 update)

Well, I completely forgot I was mid-post on this! As you might expect this all went back together fairly well, and with the pins in place the suspension is no longer twisting. I've done a few hundred miles on this design and it looks good. As with everything on this car I will check them again at some point to confirm it's all good.